People always ask me, “Wendy, you’ve been everywhere, so where is your favorite beach?” And every time, I embarrass myself a little by answering with the place closest to home. El Nido, in northern Palawan, is where I go when I need to remember why I fell in love with travel in the first place. Limestone cliffs rising straight out of turquoise water, hidden lagoons you paddle into by kayak, and fresh grilled fish eaten on a boat with your feet in the sea.
I have been to El Nido four times now, once with my family, twice with friends and once completely solo. The most confusing part for first-timers is the island hopping tours, which are simply named A, B, C and D. They all sound amazing, and they all cost about the same. So which one should you choose? Here is my honest breakdown.
How El Nido island hopping works
Tours are regulated by the local government, so every operator follows the same four standard routes. A typical shared tour runs from about 9 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m., includes a buffet lunch on the boat or on a beach, and usually covers snorkel gear. Boats take between 15 and 25 people depending on size.
You can book through your hotel, the tour shops along the main road, or online. Prices are fairly consistent, so shopping around makes less difference than you might think. What really matters is the operator’s safety record and how crowded their boat is.
Fees you should know about
- Environmental fee: Every visitor pays an eco-tourism development fee that is valid for several days. Keep the receipt with you, because you will be asked for it on the tours.
- Lagoon fees: The Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon and a few other sites charge an extra entrance or kayak fee, and they have daily visitor caps.
- Cash: Bring cash in small bills. ATMs in town do run out on busy weekends, which happened to us on my second trip.
Wendy’s tip: Book Tour A at least a day or two ahead in peak season (December to May). The lagoon slots fill up, and some operators will swap in another stop if the cap has been reached.
Tour A: the lagoons (best for first-timers)
If you only have time for one tour, make it Tour A. This is the classic El Nido experience and the one you have seen on every postcard. Stops usually include the Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, Secret Lagoon, Shimizu Island and Seven Commandos Beach.
Kayaking into the Big Lagoon, with those enormous cliffs closing in around you and the water turning from blue to emerald, genuinely made my mom cry. The downside is that it is the busiest tour. Go early in the week if you can.
Tour B: caves and sandbars
Tour B is for explorers. Highlights include Snake Island, a winding sandbar that looks like a snake from the viewpoint above, plus Cudugnon Cave, Cathedral Cave and Pinagbuyutan Island. It is usually less crowded than A and C, and I loved how different each stop felt.
Tour C: hidden beaches and the best snorkeling
Tour C is my personal favorite. You visit Hidden Beach, Secret Beach (you swim through a small gap in the rocks to reach it), Matinloc Shrine and Helicopter Island. The snorkeling here is the best of all four tours, with bright coral and plenty of fish.
One warning: Tour C goes further out into open water, and it is often cancelled when the sea is rough, especially from June to October. If it matters to you, schedule it early in your stay so you have backup days.
Tour D: slow and relaxed
Tour D stays closer to town and includes calmer beaches like Paradise Beach, Natnat Beach and Cadlao Lagoon. It is a lovely choice on your last day, if you are traveling with young kids, or if the sea is too rough for the other routes.
| Tour | Best for | Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| A | First-timers, iconic views | Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, Secret Lagoon |
| B | Caves and fewer crowds | Snake Island, Cudugnon Cave |
| C | Snorkeling and hidden beaches | Secret Beach, Helicopter Island |
| D | Families and lazy days | Paradise Beach, Cadlao Lagoon |
Private boat or shared tour?
On my solo trip, I joined shared tours and made friends with a lovely couple from Cebu. With my family, we booked a private boat, and it was worth every peso. You can leave earlier to beat the crowds, mix stops from different tours and stay longer at your favorite spots. If you are a group of six or more, the price per person often ends up surprisingly close to a shared tour.
What to pack for island hopping
- Reef-safe sunscreen (some areas are strict about this, and the coral will thank you)
- A dry bag for your phone and cash
- Water shoes, because some beaches are rocky
- A rash guard or long-sleeve swim top
- A refillable water bottle
- Motion sickness tablets if you get seasick
- A light towel and a change of clothes
How to get to El Nido
You have two main options from Manila. The fastest is a direct flight to El Nido’s small Lio Airport, which is quick but pricier. The cheaper route is to fly into Puerto Princesa and take a van or bus north, which takes around five to six hours. I have done both. If you have the budget, the direct flight gives you almost a full extra beach day.
Check the weather before you go. The PAGASA weather service posts typhoon and sea condition updates, and tours are always cancelled when the coast guard says so. For official travel information about the Philippines, the Department of Tourism’s travel site is a good place to start.
When is the best time to go?
The dry season, roughly from December to May, gives you the calmest seas and the most reliable tours. March and April are the hottest months and also the busiest because of local holidays. My favorite time is late November or early December, when the rains are easing and the crowds have not quite arrived yet.
My final verdict
If you have one day, book Tour A. If you have two, add Tour C. Three days? Do A, B and C, and spend the rest of your time on Las Cabanas Beach watching the sunset with a mango shake. Please be kind to this place, too. Take your trash back with you, do not touch the coral and never feed the fish. El Nido is special, and I would love for it to stay that way.
Planning a bigger trip around Asia? Read my guide to arriving in Tokyo, or send me your Palawan questions. This is my home turf, so I am always happy to help.
Leave a Reply